To start doing Russian manicures, you need an e-file with a small set of bits, cuticle nippers or scissors, a pusher, a file and a buffer, a dust brush, prep supplies, a way to clean and sterilize tools, and the gel products you plan to use. You can add more later. This checklist covers the basics and what each item is for.
The checklist at a glance
| Item | What it is for |
|---|---|
| E-file | Runs the bits |
| Diamond bits | Cuticle line, side walls and nail prep |
| Carbide bit | Taking off gel |
| Cuticle nippers or scissors | Trimming lifted cuticle |
| Pusher | Pushing back and lifting cuticle |
| File and buffer | Shaping the free edge and smoothing the surface |
| Dust brush | Clearing dust while you work |
| Prep supplies | A clean, dry nail before base |
| Cleaning and sterilization | Tools between clients |
| Gel system and lamp | Base, color or builder gel, and top coat |
| Cuticle oil | Finishing the service |
1. An e-file and a few bits
A Russian manicure is done with an e-file, also called a nail drill. Before you buy bits, check what shank size your handpiece takes. Most of the KMIZ bits in our nail drill bits collection have a 2.35 mm shank. Our guide to Russian manicure drill bits covers which shape and grit to use where.
You do not need a large set to start. Many techs begin with four bits:
- a small diamond flame in fine grit for the cuticle line
- a diamond ball for the cuticle area
- a fine diamond cylinder for the nail surface
- a carbide cone for taking off gel
Work at a low speed while you learn, and stay within your e-file's speed range.
2. Cuticle nippers or scissors
After the bits lift the cuticle, nippers or scissors trim it. Pick one to start and learn it well.
- Nippers have short jaws and are sized by blade length. The Staleks Expert 100 cuticle nippers with a 7 mm blade have a narrow working part for hard-to-reach spots.
- Scissors have thin, curved blades. The Staleks Smart 41 Type 3 cuticle scissors have a hook tip that follows the cuticle line.
If you are left-handed, Staleks makes left-handed cuticle scissors, such as the Expert 11 Type 1 and the Expert 13 Type 3. If you also shorten toenails during pedicures, add nail nippers, such as the Staleks Smart 70 with a 14 mm blade.
3. A pusher
A metal pusher lifts and pushes back the cuticle before you trim. The Staleks Expert 51 Type 2 pusher has a beveled end that lifts firm cuticle and a loop end that lifts loosened cuticle off the nail. Orange sticks help with cleanup along the side walls.
4. Files and a buffer
You still need a hand file to shape the free edge. A metal base with disposable refills lets you put on a fresh abrasive for every client. The Staleks Expert 40 crescent metal file base takes crescent-shaped adhesive refills. Staleks refills come in three grits: 100 for length and shape on artificial nails, 180 for shaping natural and artificial nails, and 240 for smoothing before coating. Add a buffing file to smooth the nail surface before gel.
5. A dust brush
An e-file makes fine dust. A soft nail dust brush clears it from the nail and cuticle area so you can see your work.
6. Prep supplies
Gel needs a clean, dry nail. Keep these at your station:
- lint-free wipes, used with cleanser to prep the nail plate and to take off the sticky layer after the lamp
- a dehydrator, such as the Svetlana Fyodorova Nail Dehydrator, which goes on the clean natural nail before base
7. Cleaning and sterilization
Bits, nippers, scissors and pushers touch the skin, so they need cleaning between clients. Follow your state board's rules and each maker's care instructions. Care rules differ by tool line: many Staleks Expert and Smart tools can go in a dry-heat oven or autoclave, while Staleks does not recommend either for its Classic line. Each product page gives the care note. Our disinfection supplies include self-sealing kraft sterilization pouches with a built-in indicator. A stainless steel tray, such as the Staleks Expert 10, holds tools while they soak in disinfectant.
8. Your gel system
Choose your gel products before your first client. A simple kit has a base, a color gel polish or a builder gel, and a top coat, plus a UV or LED lamp. Our gels include rubber bases, Svetlana Fyodorova Creamy Lux builder gel, acrygel and no-wipe top coats. Follow each maker's lamp times.
9. Cuticle oil to finish
Many techs finish with a drop of oil on each cuticle. Our cuticle oils include MILV dry oils in 15 ml and 50 ml bottles, and some are sold as a take-home bottle for clients.
Nice to have later
Once the basics feel easy, many techs add a second grit of the bits they use most, a slim carbide bit for cleaning under extensions, and a pedicure disc with disposable pads for hardware pedicures.
Getting your kit
We ship in the US via USPS within 3 business days, and shipping is free on orders of $99 or more. If you are near Roswell, GA, choose free local pickup. Pickup orders are usually ready in about 24 hours.