For Russian manicure cuticle work, many techs use a small diamond bit, such as a flame, ball, tornado or drop, in a fine or medium grit. To take off gel, they switch to a carbide bit, such as a cone or corn parabola, and use a diamond cylinder on the nail surface. The shape decides where a bit can reach, and the grit decides how much it takes off.
How a Russian manicure uses bits
A Russian manicure is an e-file manicure, also called a hardware manicure. The bits do the detail work along the cuticle line and side walls, and they prep the nail plate before gel. Nippers or scissors then trim what the bits have lifted. The bits work close to the skin, so it pays to choose the shape and grit with care.
The bits in our nail drill bits collection are made by KMIZ. Most of them have a 2.35 mm shank, so check that your e-file handpiece takes that size.
Bit shapes and where they work
The shape of the head decides where the bit can go.
| Shape | Type | Where it works | Example we stock |
|---|---|---|---|
| Flame | Diamond | Along the cuticle line and side walls | KMIZ Blunt Flame 018, 1.8 mm |
| Tornado | Diamond | Along the cuticle line and side walls | KMIZ Tornado 021 |
| Ball | Diamond | Around the cuticle area | KMIZ Ball DSP 5.0-M |
| Drop | Diamond | Around the cuticle area and side walls | KMIZ Drop 040 |
| Cone and rounded cone | Diamond | Along the side walls and cuticle area | KMIZ Cone 040 |
| Cylinder | Diamond | On the nail surface and tip | KMIZ Cylinder 031, rounded end |
| Cone, dolphin, triple cut cone | Carbide | Taking off gel polish and gel, correcting acrylic | KMIZ TCOD 035-M, TCO-Tri 045 |
| Corn parabola | Carbide | Taking off gel polish, working on thick natural nails | KMIZ TPAD 050-F |
| Olive and slim cone | Carbide | Cleaning under the tip of extensions | KMIZ Olive 014 |
Diamond or carbide
Diamond bits have a working surface coated with diamond grit. Many techs use them near the skin and for light prep on the natural nail. Our diamond nail bits come in very fine, fine, medium and coarse grits.
Carbide bits are made of tungsten carbide, with cut teeth instead of grit. Techs use them to take off gel and to shape or correct extensions. Our carbide nail bits are sold by cut, such as fine, medium, coarse or triple cut. KMIZ also makes a left-handed removal cone with a medium cross cut, for techs who hold the handpiece in the left hand.
Grit and color bands
Grit tells you how coarse the surface is. A finer grit takes off less with each pass. A coarser grit takes off more and leaves a rougher surface.
Many bits carry a colored band to show the grit. On the KMIZ diamond bits we stock, red is fine and blue is medium, which matches the standard dental bur color code. Our coarse and very fine KMIZ bits name the grit in the title and have no band. Not every maker uses the code, so read the grit on each product page. Our guide to drill bit color bands lists every color.
Bits for cuticle work
Cuticle work is the part of a Russian manicure that takes the most care. Many techs start with these shapes:
- A small flame for the cuticle line. The KMIZ Flame 023 comes in blue medium or red fine.
- A ball for the cuticle area. The KMIZ Ball DSP 5.0-M is a 5.0 mm ball in medium grit.
- A tornado or drop for the side walls and the area around the cuticle.
- A fine cylinder for light work on the nail surface before base.
A fine grit gives you more control while you learn. Some techs keep a medium version of the same shape for firmer cuticle.
Bits for gel removal
To take off gel polish or gel, many techs use a carbide bit. The carbide shapes we stock do these jobs:
- Cone, dolphin and triple cut cone: taking off gel polish and gel, and correcting acrylic and other dense product.
- Corn parabola: taking off gel polish and working on thick natural nails. The KMIZ TPAD 050-F has a fine cut.
- Slim cone and olive: cleaning under the tip of extensions.
After the bulk is off, many techs switch to a fine diamond cylinder to smooth the surface. If you are unsure how close you are to the natural nail, stop early and finish by hand.
Head size
Each KMIZ bit page gives the head diameter and, for most bits, the length. A small head, such as the 1.8 mm blunt flame, reaches tight spots at the cuticle. A larger head, such as a 6.0 mm carbide cone, covers more surface during removal. Pick sizes that suit the nails you work on most.
Speed, care and storage
Work at a low speed while you learn, and follow the speed range your e-file maker gives. Clean each bit after every client, then disinfect and sterilize it as the maker instructs. Store bits dry so the head stays sharp. Our disinfection supplies include self-sealing kraft sterilization pouches.
A simple starter set
If you are new to Russian manicure, start small: one fine flame, one ball, one fine cylinder and one carbide cone for removal. Add a tornado or drop once you feel steady at the side walls, and add a second grit of the shapes you use most.