Builder gel, hard gel and acrygel are all thick gels used to build structure on the nail, and all three set in a UV or LED lamp. Builder gel is the broad name for a gel you brush on to add shape or length. Hard gel most often means a builder gel that is filed off rather than soaked off. Acrygel is a hybrid that is often thicker and shaped more like acrylic.
How they compare
The names overlap between makers, so treat this as a general guide.
| Builder gel | Hard gel | Acrygel | |
|---|---|---|---|
| What it is | A thick gel for overlays, leveling and extensions | A builder gel made to be filed off | A hybrid with traits of gel and acrylic |
| Texture | Varies by product; many level on their own | Usually thick | Often thick; some level on their own |
| Shaping | Brush, then lamp, then file | Brush, then lamp, then file | Brush, sometimes with a slip liquid, then lamp, then file |
| Removal | Some soak off; many are filed down | Filed off | Usually filed down |
| What we stock | Svetlana Fyodorova Creamy Lux | None right now | Svetlana Fyodorova Glitter Acrylic Gel |
Builder gel
Techs use builder gel to build an apex, level an uneven natural nail, make overlays and sculpt extensions on forms or tips. It goes on over a base, sets in the lamp, and is then filed to shape. Textures range from thin to thick, and many builder gels level on their own.
We stock Svetlana Fyodorova Creamy Lux Builder Gel in 30 g jars, sold by shade number. It is a universal builder gel with a creamy texture close to a base, and it levels on its own. It is made for extensions of any type, for leveling the natural nail and for overlays. You can see every shade in our builder gels.
Hard gel
The term "hard gel" is used in two ways. Most often it means a builder gel that does not soak off in remover, so it comes off by filing. Some makers also use it as another name for any thick builder gel. Because the label varies, look at how a product is removed before you buy it.
We do not carry a hard gel right now. If you already use one, our gel brush for poly hard gel, acrylgel and gel polish is made for building and shaping with hard gel or acrylgel.
Acrygel
Acrygel goes by several names, including acrylic gel, acryl gel and polygel. It mixes traits of acrylic and gel. Many acrygels are thicker than builder gel, so techs press and shape them with a brush before they go in the lamp. Some techs dip the brush in a slip liquid so it does not stick.
We stock Svetlana Fyodorova Glitter Acrylic Gel in 50 g jars, in shades 002, 006 and 007. It has glitter built in and a self-leveling texture. It is made for building and sculpting with built-in glitter and for full-cover glitter designs. For shaping, we also carry a nail brush for acryl gel. See all of them in our acrygel collection.
What goes under and over
Many techs put a base layer under all three. A typical order looks like this:
- Prep the nail, then apply a dehydrator. Our Svetlana Fyodorova Nail Dehydrator is made for the clean natural nail before base.
- Apply a base. The Svetlana Fyodorova French Rubber Base goes under gel polish or builder gel. See our gel bases.
- Build with builder gel, hard gel or acrygel, then set it in the lamp.
- File and shape the structure.
- Finish with a top coat, such as a no-wipe top from our gel top coats.
Lamp times differ by product and by lamp, so follow the maker's instructions for each layer.
Taking it off
Many builder gels, and most hard gels and acrygels, are filed down rather than soaked off. Many techs take off most of the product with a carbide bit and leave a thin layer for the next fill. Our KMIZ carbide cones are made for taking off gel polish and gel and for correcting acrylic and other dense product.
Which one to choose
- Builder gel if you want one product for overlays, leveling and extensions, with a texture that levels on its own.
- Acrygel if you like a thicker product you can press into shape, or you want glitter built into the structure.
- Hard gel if you work with a system built around removal by filing.
If you are new to any of them, practice on tips first.